It had to be retreating to a line very high

Admired by the middle of fashion, acclaimed by the press, Christian Lacroix has never managed to turn his talent in coin of the realm. Yet, the means does him not missed.

Seduced by this young couturier who is noted by his dresses to Ottoman, inspired by the 19th century, with a billowing skirt in the back, Bernard Arnault, already owner of Dior, decided in the 1980s to help him. Debauchery Christian Lacroix at Patou and launches his house in 1987. A daring at the time coup. "It was an incredible godsend, because there was almost more couture houses," remembers Jean-Jacques Picart, former head of the structure Lacroix, from its creation until 1999.

Despite this support, the collections are evil. For Jean-Jacques Picart, today consultant in luxury, the pyramid model, that is, from the haute couture to develop ready-to-wear and licensing at more accessible prices, no was not adapted to the creator. "It did not fit his personality." It had to be retreating to a line very high. "The first perfume launched in 1989 was a failure. The design of the bottle is criticized. It is also proposed too soon, while the reputation of the designer does not go beyond the capitals.

Dominique Cuvillier, the marketer of trends, believes that Christian Lacroix is an artist who did not turn his house in the company: "Refuses to consider themselves as a brand." His attempts to ready-to-wear were too sharp to be understandable to consumers. Haute couture is a wonderful show, but behind needed products otherwise it serves no purpose.

The House also suffers from a lack of stability. It is scroll 14 CEO. Pierre Godé, now Vice-President of LVMH, and Yves Carcelle, the pattern of Vuitton, "are not stayed long enough to test the correctness of their intuitions, believes Jean-Jacques Picart. However, to a claw of the exception, must be also a manager who has engineering.

The departure of the "patron".

For seventeen years, Bernard Arnault continues to sign cheques, without ever winning money. And then it ends not lose patience. "The success of fashion critics, is good, but not enough, LVMH is not intended to be only a patron of the arts", wrote the pattern of the world leader of luxury (owner of the "voices") in his book "The Passion" creative in 2000. Five years later, the divorce is consumed between two men, as far as feeling neglected, Christian Lacroix multiplies collaborations external through its XCLX company, created in 1999.

Resumption by the Falic brothers, the House cannot always take off. Its new owners continue to apply the same strategy. However, they decide to remove lines Bazar and Jeans, cheapest, and focus sales on a range of luxury ready-to-wear. "If LVMH has failed, I do not see how others can succeed, barking Jean-Baptiste Danet, Interbrand Europe pattern. LVMH, PPR and Richemont, has invented a "business model" of luxury brands, combined with creator, network of stores and marketing to generate profitability. But Lacroix activity comes to haute couture, with outstanding knowledge of this know-how, but, around, which allows to earn money does not exist. "The rest therefore model to invent for this magician of colour who has always wanted to remain a craftsman.