We make clothes in timeless chic sport style

The House Hermès has turned a double page in its history. The charismatic and that of its creator. Yesterday, at its General Assembly, gathered family made a homage moving to Jean-Louis Dumas, his mythical boss, "poet, loving and revolutionary", disappeared early May. "We left a house in excellent health, said Bertrand Puech, Manager of Emile Hermès SARL." He has developed the tree, the leaves and fruit.

A few weeks after his disappearance, the Group announced the departure of Jean-Paul Gaultier, creator of the women's collections, at the end of his contract, after seven years of collaboration. Sign of a new era opens in the group. The "enfant terrible of fashion" will be replaced by Christophe Lemaire (45 years) which, after its classes in Mugler and Lacroix, spent twenty years at Lacoste.

"Creator out of the ordinary, I year-Paul Gaultier we made dream, surprised us and focused collections women at the top and the later", said Pierre - Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermes and son of Jean-Louis. This decision "taken together, he said. "The departure of a creator, it is always a challenge."

In fact, this change mark taking in hand of the group by the sixth generation family, with growth objectives. "Pierre-Alexis will find itself in the front line to assume this change, notes Jean-Jacques Picart, consultant in luxury. There is a double estate at Hermes. Celle, emotional, linked to the disappearance of the father who was very involved in the creation, and had recruited Gaultier. And the strategic marked by the desire to better paste at the time, most in restraint after the crisis.

A discreet creator

Unknown to the general public, Christophe Lemaire is indeed little "addicted" to the podium. A discretion which ICES at home. In charge of the collections for men for twenty-two years, Veronique Nichanian, who prefers it also the shadows at last, brought male apparel sales on par with those of women. This sector is considered by the group as a relay of growth. In February, it opened in New York his first store dedicated to the male universe. "Hermes is not a fashion house, ensures Patrick Thomas, Manager of the House. We make clothes in timeless chic sport style. Lemaire creations are in line with what we want. I t is not to the Lacoste, but the mode of the dialogue work well with him.

"The difficulty with fashion designers, is that they have a very strong personality, and they must not even shut the mark." Hermes, the culture, it is the product, says Dominique Cuvillier, the marketer of trends. Lemaire is not a show man, he will make a substantive work.

This change should boost sales of the collections for women, which remained stable in 2009, whereas the male lines have grown by 10. However the new stylist is seen by many as the author of the revival of Lacoste. "Our ambition is to grow the sales of our fashion pole and accessories, for 19 of the activity, recognizes Guillaume de Seynes, Deputy Director-General of Hermes. Gaultier is helped by including developing the leather.

Remains to convince the clients. Is arranged in March for the first collection of Christophe Lemaire.